Spud and I visited Hawaii in 2004. Back then we were poor university students doing Oahu on the cheap (yeah, that was a thing you could do back then). We always said if we returned to Hawaii we wanted to visit one of the other islands. We never imagined that it would be The Big Island of Hawai’i.
Why The Big Island?
I can’t even remember. I think it came about after we bought our America the Beautiful pass (thankfully before some guy’s face got plastered all over it) at Acadia National Park. Not that we mind donating to the National Parks Service (Park Rangers: you are amazing!), but the pass really starts to pay for itself if you visit two or more National Parks in one year. And Hawaii’s national park is Volcanoes National Park on The Big Island.
What to Expect on The Big Island
We had really low expectations (sorry, Hawaii). We thought it might be this half-abandoned island with a few shacks and a rinky-dink airport, oh, yeah, and a volcano! But boy, did this island deliver!! The island is a total delight.
On one side of the island is Hapuna Beach—one of the best beaches in the world. Great body-surfing. Beautiful golden sand beach. There is a decent parking lot, with a fee for non-residents, and it does fill up quickly. The West side of the island seems to be where the wealthy tuck themselves down in their resorts. We just bypassed them, and carried on our adventure.
Passing through the center of the island, it’s tundra and old lava and scoria. It’s like a whole other world. There are wild chickens, and wild goats, just wandering along the side of the road.
Hilo has some great restaurants. If you thought you wouldn’t eat well, here, you are very mistaken. We particularly enjoyed sandwiches and smoothies from Coffee Notes. They also have the usual standbys, like McDonald’s and Panda Express.
The Botanical Gardens are lovely. Expensive. But, lovely. I’m not quite sure we got our money’s worth, but like the America the Beautiful pass, I kind of don’t mind donating to and organization like this, which is preserving and expanding on the natural beauty of the landscape. There are some steep parts of the path, so keep that in mind if your mobility isn’t the best. If you’re scared of heights like me, there’s nothing to fear here. It’s steep in places, but feels very safe.
Volcanoes National Park is amazing. The island continued to surprise us with its diversity of biomes. Within the National Park we explored trails (okay, mostly the boys explored trails, because yes, these can be a little tricky for those of us with a fear of heights). You can walk down onto a crater floor, which is very cool. And I joined them on the very short walk through the lava tunnel (not scary). There’s really good parking at all the major scenic outlooks and trails, but don’t underestimate the volume of tourists! The parking lots fill up quickly.
Where to Stay:
We chose to spend the night at the cabins, which are down the road (and part of) The Volcano House. As avid campers, this was a lot of fun. The cabin consisted of a double-bed, and bunk beds, space for your suitcases, a firepit outside your door, and easy access to restrooms and (warm!) showers. I wouldn’t hesitate to stay here, again, it was a wonderful experience. Plus, we were also allowed free access to hot cocoas in the hotel lobby. We enjoyed the hotel’s breakfast buffet (shout-out to the guy making the omelets!! You are THE DUDE!!!) Not to mention, several not-too-long trails (generally about .7 miles one way) depart from the hotel. We got to walk alongside wild chicken-like birds, the crater rim (the boys, not me), and beautiful native garden.
Getting There:
It’s an easy 1-hour (if that) flight from Honolulu. The airport is lovely, with all the amenities you’d expect and want.
Getting Around:
The Big Island is not the kind of place you can get everywhere relying on walking and public transport. We absolutely recommend renting a car, which can be done across the road, but within the airport grounds.